London Fashion Week 2026 showcased a return to bold aesthetics, with "messy girl" and "gardencore" trends leading the charge. Designers embraced deliberate chaos and practical, outdoors-inspired styles, moving away from minimalist "quiet luxury."
The return of major British designers and the emergence of bold, expressive trends signal a potential shift in fashion away from minimalist aesthetics, impacting consumer preferences and the direction of the retail sector.
London Fashion Week 2026 has marked a significant return for major British designers, with Alexander McQueen and Mulberry showcasing their spring/summer 2027 collections. Alexander McQueen returned to its home city after 25 years showing in Paris, a move described by Laura Weir, CEO of the British Fashion Council, as "quite a big deal for us." Creative director Seán McGirr's collection for McQueen embraced dark romanticism with elements like devil horns and chainmail skull dresses. Mulberry also made a comeback after a nine-year absence, with Christopher Kane's debut collection for the brand heavily featuring the iconic Baywater bag and leather.
The overarching theme for the season appears to be a departure from minimalist "quiet luxury." Elektra Kotsoni, deputy director for Vogue Business and Vogue Runway, highlighted several emerging trends. The "messy girl" aesthetic, championed by designers like Chopova Lowena, Sinead Gorey, and Conner Ives, embraces deliberate chaos with undone tailoring and "unexpected clashes" of colors and textures. This trend is seen as a reaction to cleaner aesthetics and a sign of "resilience" in a "messy" world.
Another significant trend is "gardencore," with designers such as Erdem, Yuhan Wang, and Bora Aksu presenting looks inspired by gardening. This involves practical silhouettes like aprons and trench coats, moving away from pandemic-era cottage-core towards a more authentic, "allotment-ready" feel. The "modern goddess" trend, influenced by Ancient Greece and films like "The Odyssey," features draped garments and flowy silhouettes, contrasting with the minimalist dressing observed among fashion week attendees.
Color-wise, orange in various shades is predicted to be a major trend, seen in shows by Mulberry, Justin Cassin, Enny Atelier, and Vin + Omi. Finally, ballet-inspired fashion is also making a strong statement, with Edeline Lee's show featuring models on pointe. Ballet flats and small shoe silhouettes are expected to be prevalent, with Kotsoni suggesting vintage shops as a source for replicating the look.
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