Key facts
- Indian artisans' skills are increasingly being recognized in global luxury fashion.
- Chanakya International, a Mumbai-based atelier, is a leader in this movement.
- Chanakya works with 1,400 artisans, some with 13th-generation craft skills.
- Dior partnered with Chanakya for a show in Mumbai.
- The Gem Palace, a Jaipur-based jeweler established in 1852, collaborates with Dior.
- Brands like Ralph Lauren and Fendi have faced criticism for appropriation of Indian crafts.
For decades, the intricate skills of Indian artisans have been an integral, yet often uncredited, part of global luxury fashion. From the zardozi embroidery on Dior dresses to the mirror-work on Fendi bags, Indian craftsmanship has been a hidden force. Now, this work is beginning to gain its own recognition, with Chanakya International, a Mumbai-based textile and embroidery atelier, leading the charge.
Chanakya recently marked its 40th anniversary, celebrating its evolution from an embroidery powerhouse to a craft and cultural institution. Karishma Swali, who leads the atelier, emphasizes the unique and unparalleled nature of India's textile and craft heritage, noting that it is a tradition largely lost in other parts of the world. Chanakya employs 1,400 artisans, some with 13th-generation expertise in hundreds of embroidery traditions, supplying numerous luxury labels.
High-profile collaborations are bringing Indian craftsmanship into the spotlight. In 2023, Dior held a show at Mumbai’s Gateway of India to showcase its partnership with Chanakya, featuring designs inspired by Indian textiles. The Kalhath Institute, a craft-preservation center, supports this by pairing international artists with local artisans, highlighting the "intelligence of the hand" that underpins such demanding work.
Beyond textiles, the Gem Palace, a Jaipur-based jewelry house established in 1852 by the Kasliwal family, has also collaborated with Dior on collections inspired by traditional Indian motifs. Samarth Kasliwal of Gem Palace notes the universal appeal of Indian artistry, often drawing from nature with floral patterns and animal motifs.
However, increased visibility has also brought scrutiny regarding credit and appropriation. Ralph Lauren faced criticism for a gown featuring embroidery resembling Indian zardozi without attribution. Fendi was also initially criticized for a bag with mirrorwork, though it later credited Chanakya artisans. A Financial Times report noted that EU rules allow garments finished in Europe to carry European labels, even if embroidered elsewhere.
Prada faced accusations of cultural appropriation for Kolhapuri-inspired sandals. In response, the brand partnered with state-backed organizations in India to produce a limited-edition collection and committed to a three-year artisan training program. These controversies and subsequent corrections suggest a potential shift in India's role within the fashion industry, moving towards greater recognition and equitable representation.
Swali is also fostering this visibility through the Chanakya School of Craft, established in 2016, which offers free embroidery training to women, some of whom have gone on to work at the atelier or start their own studios. The initiative aims to institutionalize and intergenerationalize craft education, which has historically been excluded for women.