Key facts
- Greek cafes such as To Meli and Papillon are experiencing significant revenue growth in Brussels.
- These establishments are popular among EU workers, journalists, and officials.
- Many Greek cafe owners and staff relocated to Belgium during Greece's debt crisis.
- To Meli's revenues have grown by almost 300% between 2013 and 2024.
- Papillon's revenue has increased fourfold.
- The freddo espresso, a popular Greek coffee drink, has roots in Italian espresso.
Greek-owned cafes are quietly succeeding in Brussels' European Union quarter, offering a cultural alternative to traditional Belgian and Italian coffee houses. Establishments like To Meli and Papillon, named for 'honey' and 'butterfly' respectively, have become popular meeting spots for Eurocrats, lobbyists, and journalists, providing a daily respite from the demanding EU environment.
The success of these Greek cafes is partly a diaspora story. Many owners and staff relocated to Belgium during Greece's severe debt crisis in the 2010s, when unemployment soared. They found opportunities and built businesses, often through family and friend networks. To Meli, which opened in 2019, has seen its revenues surge by nearly 300% from 2013 to 2024, while its neighbor Papillon's revenue has quadrupled, according to its manager.
Greek coffee culture emphasizes a social, leisurely experience, epitomized by drinks like the freddo espresso and freddo cappuccino. These iced, espresso-based beverages, known for their thick foam and slow-sipping nature, are a nostalgic comfort for expatriates, even in Brussels' damp winters. The freddo itself has an Italian connection, originating from an attempt to market Italian espresso in Greece in the 1990s, though the Greek version is distinct from Italian 'shakerato' drinks.
While Italian cafes like Caffelatte remain popular, the Greek establishments are carving out a significant niche. European officials and workers appreciate the quality of the coffee and food, as well as the relaxed atmosphere, often not explicitly seeking out the 'Greekness' but enjoying the vibe. The cafes serve as both business meeting venues and social hubs for the Greek and Cypriot community in Brussels.