Ancient grains gain traction for diversity, sustainability

There is no single regulatory definition of "ancient grain." The Whole Grains Council, a widely cited authority, defines them as grains and pseudocereals that have remained largely unchanged by selective breeding over the last several hundred years. This contrasts with modern bread wheat, which has undergone extensive crossbreeding and agronomic programs.

Key criteria for a grain to be considered ancient include minimal modern breeding intervention, a long cultivation history of at least several centuries, and genetic closeness to wild ancestors. These grains often retain traits like taller stalks and lower per-acre yields compared to modern commodity crops.

Botanically, ancient grains are divided into true cereals, which belong to the grass family Poaceae (e.g., spelt, einkorn, emmer, millet, sorghum, teff, barley), and pseudocereals, which are broadleaf plants whose seeds are used like grains but are not grasses (e.g., quinoa, amaranth, buckwheat). Pseudocereals are naturally gluten-free, while true cereals in the wheat tribe contain gluten.

Among the key ancient grains, einkorn is the oldest known cultivated wheat, domesticated around 10,000 years ago. Emmer, also known as farro medio, was dominant in ancient Egypt and Rome. Spelt, a hexaploid wheat, has higher protein and mineral content than standard wheat. Kamut, or Khorasan wheat, is known for its large kernels and buttery flavor. Freekeh is young, green durum wheat that is fire-roasted and cracked.

These grains are often classified as "covered" wheats because their hulls remain tightly attached to the kernel, requiring processing before consumption, unlike modern "free-threshing" wheat.