Key facts
- Zara released a collection designed by John Galliano, titled Re{form}.
- The collection's launch follows the cancellation of a planned Met Museum exhibition for Galliano due to controversy over his past antisemitic remarks.
- Galliano was convicted of a hate crime in 2011 for racist and antisemitic rants.
- Fashion industry figures are divided on whether Galliano has atoned for his past actions.
- Zara is seen by some as benefiting significantly from the collaboration, potentially enhancing its brand image.
- Galliano has a two-year contract with Zara.
Zara has launched a new collection designed by John Galliano, named Re{form}, approximately one month after plans for a dedicated exhibition of his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York were canceled. The collection, described as "authored by the couturier John Galliano. Built from our memory. Made for now," aims to bridge Galliano's archival inspirations with Zara's contemporary offerings.
The decision to proceed with the Zara collaboration comes after significant backlash to the Met's initial plans to honor Galliano. He was convicted of a hate crime in 2011 following a series of racist and antisemitic public outbursts. Critics, including Met patrons, New York politicians, and Jewish leaders, voiced strong objections. Galliano's biographer, Dana Thomas, labeled the proposed exhibition a "terrible idea" and "downright bizarre" given his conviction.
However, some within the fashion industry, including Anna Wintour, have supported Galliano, arguing he has atoned for his past actions, particularly as he was struggling with addiction at the time. Galliano himself issued a statement expressing deep remorse for the pain caused, especially to the Jewish and Asian communities.
Industry observers view the Zara collaboration as a significant strategic move for the fast-fashion giant. Fashion critic Philippe Pourhashemi described it as a "major coup" for Zara, questioning the rational alignment between Galliano and such a platform. Designer Orsola de Castro called it "the coup of their career, their life, their brand."
The collection, which has been in development for years, was shot by photographer Steven Meisel. Galliano, who was dismissed from Dior in 2011, has since worked with Oscar de la Renta and spent a decade as creative director for Maison Margiela, concluding his tenure with a celebrated show in 2024. His designs have continued to appear on red carpets, notably worn by Kim Kardashian at the 2024 Met Gala.
Fashion historian Tony Glenville suggested that for Zara, the move is primarily about reputation and bolstering its fashion credentials, rather than immediate sales. He noted that such designer collaborations often have limited stock. The collection's pricing, ranging from £17.99 to £699, positions Zara as offering "affordable luxury" and aims to differentiate it from ultra-fast fashion competitors like Shein and Temu, while elevating its own brand above its discount line, Lefties.
Galliano has reportedly signed a two-year contract, suggesting a relatively low-risk strategy for Zara. If the collection proves successful, the contract may be extended. Zara declined to comment on the collaboration.