Key facts
- Fashion Roundtable is urging the UK government to manufacture NHS and MoD uniforms domestically.
- The organization's letter is signed by over 1,200 people, including Ben Fogle and Patrick Grant.
- Fashion Roundtable estimates the NHS and MoD spend about £120m annually on uniforms, with 55% made overseas.
- The US mandates domestic manufacturing for military uniforms through the Berry Amendment.
- The US military uniform market reached $1.62bn in 2025.
Fashion industry advocates are calling on the UK government to prioritize domestic manufacturing for uniforms worn by the National Health Service (NHS) and the Ministry of Defence (MoD). The thinktank Fashion Roundtable plans to deliver a letter to Downing Street on Wednesday, urging Andy Burnham to commit to onshore production.
The letter, signed by over 1,200 individuals including adventurer Ben Fogle and "The Great British Sewing Bee" judge Patrick Grant, argues that public procurement contracts for textiles are crucial for retaining skills, fostering inclusive growth, and enhancing regional resilience in the UK's manufacturing sector.
According to an estimate by a Fashion Roundtable economist, approximately £120 million is spent annually on uniforms for the NHS and MoD, with 55% of these items currently sourced from overseas. The organization points to the economic benefits of domestic production, citing Scotland's experience with personal protective equipment (PPE) during the Covid-19 pandemic. Scotland invested £102.7 million in PPE, producing 88% domestically in 2021, which generated £66.7 million in additional economic value and created 1,400 jobs.
Kate Hills, founder of the manufacturing organization Make It British, stated that such contracts would provide manufacturers with the stability needed to invest in long-term employment rather than operating on a day-to-day survival basis. She expressed hope that Burnham, known for supporting UK-made apparel, might champion this initiative.
The US serves as an example of mandated domestic production for military uniforms through the Berry Amendment, enacted in 1941. The market for military uniforms in the US reached $1.62 billion (£1.19 billion) in 2025.
Concerns about the security implications of sourcing army uniforms from China have also been raised. Iain Duncan Smith described it as a security risk, drawing a historical parallel to the 1930s. Grant echoed these concerns, highlighting the vulnerability of supply chains when relying on countries with unstable relationships. He also noted that the procurement process itself is often too complex for smaller operations, suggesting that streamlining these procedures is also necessary.