Key facts
- EU investigators seized 4,200 tonnes of textile waste illegally exported from Italy to Turkey.
- The waste contained high levels of acrylic fibres, subject to strict disposal rules.
- Shipments were allegedly mislabelled to evade environmental laws and recycling costs.
- An additional 2,100 tonnes of textile waste were found in a Turkish warehouse.
- A further 768 tonnes were discovered in the port of Mersin.
- Italian authorities seized company assets worth approximately €12 million.
European anti-fraud investigators have uncovered a large-scale scheme that illegally exported 4,200 tonnes of textile waste from Italy to Turkey, evading environmental laws and recycling costs. The investigation, led by the European Anti-Fraud Office (OLAF) in cooperation with Italian Carabinieri and Turkish customs, focused on textile waste containing high levels of acrylic fibres, which persist in the environment for up to 200 years and require sophisticated, costly disposal.
Investigators found that shipments had allegedly been mislabelled to avoid these requirements. OLAF's director general Petr Klement stated that such schemes offer opportunities for organized networks to make illegal gains and highlighted the importance of international cooperation in combating environmental crime.
During a joint inspection in Turkey, authorities discovered the initial 4,200 tonnes of illegally shipped waste. The investigation deepened to reveal an additional 2,100 tonnes stored in a warehouse linked to a recycling facility allegedly noncompliant with Turkish environmental laws. Furthermore, 768 tonnes of textile waste connected to the same scheme were found in the Turkish port of Mersin, also incorrectly labelled.
The operation resulted in significant enforcement action in Italy, where authorities raided a business complex in Brescia. Company facilities, trucks, and approximately €12 million in financial assets were seized.
The EU textile and clothing sector generated €170 billion in turnover in 2023, but textile waste remains difficult to recycle. In 2019, Europe generated about 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only a fifth collected for reuse or recycling. The European Commission has introduced new textile-waste management rules for 2025 to strengthen oversight and prevent false labelling of exported goods.
France, leading a coalition of five EU member states, is urging stricter regulations on ultra-fast fashion, warning that the business model threatens environmental goals and overwhelms waste systems. The group has called for enhanced market surveillance and enforcement gaps to be closed, reflecting concerns over the influx of ultra-fast fashion from platforms like Shein and Temu.