Key facts
- Dolce & Gabbana's SS27 menswear show featured an extravagant Italian aesthetic with revealing and heavily embellished garments.
- The brand is reportedly facing financial difficulties, with a £391 million debt pile and potential property sale-and-leaseback negotiations.
- Stefano Gabbana stepped down as chairman in December, and Stefano Cantino was appointed co-chief executive in January.
- Paul Smith presented a collection emphasizing tailored suits, catering to a younger demographic seeking to smarten up their style.
- Smith drew inspiration from 80s and late 90s tailoring for his collection, focusing on relaxed styling and unique details.
Dolce & Gabbana presented its Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week, leaning into its signature extravagant Italian aesthetic with clingy muscle vests, micro shorts, and heavily embellished garments. The show aimed to draw attention away from the brand's financial and management challenges, including a reported £391 million debt pile and recent leadership changes. Stefano Gabbana stepped down as chairman in December, with Stefano Cantino appointed co-chief executive in January alongside Alfonso Dolce. The brand is reportedly considering a sale and leaseback of properties to negotiate with creditors.
In contrast, British designer Paul Smith showcased his menswear collection, focusing on contemporary suiting. Smith noted a trend among younger consumers, aged 18-25, who are moving away from casual pandemic-era dressing and seeking smarter attire, citing Harry Styles as an example of this shift. Smith's collection drew inspiration from 80s and late 90s tailoring, emphasizing relaxed styling with elements like unbuttoned waistcoats and untucked shirts, and featuring unique details such as crocodile eye buttons.