Key facts
- Santorini winemakers are struggling with heat and drought, leading to increased grape prices and reduced wine production.
- The island's famous Assyrtiko grape production fell from 2,500 tons in 2022 to 500 tons last year.
- Winemakers are paying up to 10 euros per kilogram for grapes, compared to 80 cents in less affected regions.
- New techniques such as wastewater irrigation, atmospheric water harvesting, and underground irrigation are being tested.
- Competition for water resources is high among farmers, hoteliers, and pool operators during tourist season.
Winemakers on the Greek island of Santorini are grappling with the severe impacts of climate change, including prolonged heatwaves and drought, which are threatening traditional viticulture. The island's famed 'kouloura' vine training method, designed to protect grapes from the sun, is proving insufficient as old vines die off due to the extreme conditions.
Low rainfall and searing temperatures over the past few years have significantly increased grape prices and slashed wine production. Yiannis Boutaris, a sixth-generation winemaker, highlighted the issue, noting that his winery's own vineyards have suffered, and he is now paying premium prices for grapes. This situation intensifies concerns over water supply, a broader problem across Greece.
To combat these challenges, winemakers are exploring innovative techniques. Domaine Sigalas, where Boutaris works, is participating in a pilot project with local authorities and scientists to use treated wastewater for irrigation, a method also employed in California. This is seen as a more sustainable and energy-efficient approach compared to desalination plants. Additionally, Boutaris is experimenting with planting vines in rows for more efficient irrigation and with atmospheric water harvesting technology that uses solar heat to extract moisture from the air.
The competition for water resources is fierce, especially during the summer tourist season, as farmers, hotel owners, and swimming pool operators vie for limited supplies. The production of Santorini's signature Assyrtiko grape plummeted from 2,500 metric tons in 2022 to just 500 tons last year, leading to prices as high as 10 euros ($11) per kilogram, a stark contrast to the 80 cents paid in less affected regions of northern Greece.
Stefanos Koundouras, a professor of viticulture, stated that Santorini experienced its hottest temperatures in 60 years in 2023 and 2024. He warned that the wine sector across Europe, particularly in Mediterranean regions, faces sustainability issues if the climate continues to become hotter and drier, impacting wine quality and character. Winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou is also adopting new strategies, including underground irrigation to reduce evaporation and trellising systems for more efficient watering, emphasizing the need for adaptation and new ways of thinking.