Key facts
- Michelin has launched its first winery guide, the Grape Selection, starting with Burgundy.
- Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, a Burgundy estate, rejected its one-grape rating from the guide.
- The estate cited a deliberate choice since 2020 not to submit wines for press reviews or ratings.
- The guide assesses estates on wine quality, consistency, vineyard and cellar practices, and sense of place.
- Ninety-four estates in Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, and Côte Chalonnaise received Michelin Grapes.
- Some French wine producers view the guide as a potential new avenue to reach consumers and buyers amidst industry challenges.
Michelin, known for its restaurant ratings, has launched its inaugural winery guide, the Michelin Grape Selection, beginning with the Burgundy region. The guide awards one, two, or three 'grapes' based on estate-level criteria such as wine quality, consistency, vineyard practices, and expression of place, rather than individual vintages.
However, the guide's debut has been met with immediate backlash. Shortly after its release, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, a well-regarded Burgundy estate, publicly rejected its one-grape distinction. The estate stated on social media that it was unaware of how the rating was established and has deliberately chosen not to submit its wines for press reviews or ratings since 2020.
This public rebuff has placed Michelin's wine assessment process under scrutiny as it expands its rating system. While some producers, particularly in regions like Bordeaux facing significant industry challenges such as overproduction and declining demand, see the guide as a potential new tool to connect with consumers and buyers, others echo Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux's concerns about the independence and credibility of Michelin's tasting and rating methodology.
The first selection covered three Burgundy subregions: Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, and Côte Chalonnaise, with 94 estates receiving Michelin Grapes. Michelin's expansion into wine follows criticism earlier this year over changes to its restaurant awards, including the discontinuation of its Green Star for sustainability.