Key facts
- Marks & Spencer is selling Ann Summers crotchless knickers on its website.
- The sale has generated online criticism, with some deeming it 'tawdry'.
- Experts suggest this is part of M&S's strategy to introduce diverse third-party brands.
- M&S reported a doubling of underwear sales to customers under 30 in 2024.
- Ann Summers also offers bras and chemises on the M&S platform.
- The retailer stated the 'brands at M&S' strategy enhances customer choice.
Marks & Spencer (M&S) has introduced Ann Summers crotchless knickers to its online store, a move that has sparked public outcry and commentary. Critics have described the items as 'tawdry' and 'S&M'.
However, retail experts view this as a strategic expansion of M&S's product offerings. Catherine Shuttleworth, CEO of Savvy, suggests M&S is introducing brands into sectors outside its core to attract attention and engage a broader customer base. She highlighted that M&S underwear sales to individuals under 30 have doubled in 2024 compared to the previous year, indicating a shift in its customer demographic.
M&S has been expanding its 'brands at M&S' strategy for five years, incorporating third-party brands like Pour Moi and Calvin Klein into its lingerie selection. The introduction of Ann Summers, known for its association with sex and lingerie, is seen as a way to further appeal to younger consumers and fill a perceived gap in M&S's category.
An M&S spokesperson stated that the strategy aims to provide customers with greater choice through carefully selected third-party brands that complement the existing M&S offering. The inclusion of Ann Summers is intended to broaden the underwear and nightwear selection available online.
Shuttleworth also pointed to the significant publicity generated by such a move, suggesting that even if the specific item doesn't sell in large quantities, it drives traffic and brand awareness. M&S has a long history in the underwear market, dating back to the 1920s, and has adapted to changing fashion trends over the decades, from full briefs to thongs and Brazilian styles.
Lorraine Topper, a researcher at The Underpinnings Museum, argued that the outrage is disproportionate, noting that M&S has historically offered a range of lingerie styles beyond basic items, including lace designs. She added that open-crotch underwear was common before the 1920s, suggesting the current reaction may be overblown.