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Gender-blurring menswear gains traction on Paris runways

Created at 29 Jun · 1:06 PM1 source↑ Market-relevant
IN SHORT

Parisian runways are showcasing a significant shift towards gender-fluid menswear, with designers increasingly incorporating elements traditionally associated with womenswear. This trend, driven by both creative expression and commercial strategy, reflects a broader societal move towards more fluid understandings of gender.

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Key Numbers

2030Saint Laurent's target year to double men's sales
1966Year Yves Saint Laurent put women in men's tailoring
17%Reported increase in pink apparel sellouts year-on-year for spring-summer 2025

Who's Involved

Joseph McBrinn
art historian at Ulster University discussing gender fluidity in fashion
Andrew Groves
menswear systems professor at the University of Westminster on androgyny's legibility
Jonathan Anderson
designer for Dior overseeing both men's and women's lines
Pharrell Williams
designer of Louis Vuitton's men's campaign
Valerie Steele
director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology on economic drivers
Suzy Menkes
veteran fashion critic on historical trends in male dress

↳ Why This Matters

The increasing integration of gender-fluid elements into mainstream menswear signifies a cultural shift in how gender is perceived and expressed, impacting fashion industry strategies and consumer expectations. It also highlights ongoing societal debates about gender norms and their potential regression.

Key facts

  • Paris Men's Fashion Week showcased a significant trend of gender-blurring in menswear.
  • Designers are incorporating traditionally feminine elements like pearls, sheer fabrics, and pink into men's collections.
  • This shift is driven by both creative exploration and commercial strategies, including merging men's and women's shows.
  • Experts note a historical context for gender fluidity in fashion, predating current mainstream adoption.
  • The trend reflects a broader societal move towards more fluid understandings of gender, though a return to binary norms is also a possibility.

Paris Men's Fashion Week has concluded, with runways demonstrating a significant integration of gender-bending elements into menswear. Designers are increasingly blurring the lines between traditional menswear and womenswear, incorporating items like pearls, sheer blouses, and skirts into men's collections. This trend is not confined to the runway, appearing in advertising as well, reflecting a broader societal shift towards more fluid understandings of gender.

Experts note that while this gender fluidity has been present in fashion for decades, it is now becoming mainstream, particularly among younger generations. The movement from strictly binary gender expressions in fashion to more fluid ones is seen as a reflection of contemporary societal views. However, the underlying structure of gendered categories remains important for these gestures to be understood, according to some analysts.

Brands are adopting coed runway shows as a strategic move, consolidating media attention and allowing for a more cohesive narrative. This approach is partly driven by commercial pressures within the luxury market, which has experienced a weaker period. The historical precedent for this blurring includes iconic moments like Yves Saint Laurent putting women in men's tailoring in 1966 and David Bowie's androgynous style in the 1970s.

Despite the increasing acceptance, a notable asymmetry persists: women wearing men's suits is commonplace, while men adopting traditionally feminine attire like skirts or heels is still often viewed as transgressive. The cultural landscape outside of fashion also plays a role, with a rise in combative online masculinity and a rollback of LGBTQ+ protections in some regions. This volatile environment could potentially lead to a more entrenched, binary approach to gender in fashion in the coming years, according to some observers.

Frequently asked questions

It signifies a mainstream adoption of gender-fluid elements in menswear, reflecting broader societal shifts and influencing fashion industry strategies.

Brands are merging men's and women's shows for media impact and convenience, driven by commercial pressures in the luxury market and the fact that women already buy menswear.

No, historical precedents include Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 and David Bowie in the 1970s, with fashion often preceding societal language around gender.

Fashion has moved from binary understandings of gender to more fluid expressions, with historical peaks of androgyny in the 1920s, 1970s, and 1990s.

What Happens Next

01Fashion may revert to more entrenched gender binaries within five to 10 years.
02Legal protections for LGBTQ+ people continue to face reversals in various countries.

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Cadence

How It Developed

Paris Men's Fashion Week concluded, highlighting a trend of gender-blurring in menswear.
Designers like Amiri, Ami, and Vetements featured women modeling menswear looks on coed runways.
Pharrell Williams' Louis Vuitton campaign featured a pregnant Rihanna, exposing her baby bump.
Fashion experts note a long-standing history of gender-bending in fashion, predating current mainstream awareness.
The trend is seen as a move from binary gender understandings to more fluid expressions.
Some shows, like Issey Miyake's IM Men, featured all-male casts but maintained an androgynous aesthetic.
Designers are finding new creative freedom within the constraints of menswear.
Jonathan Anderson for Dior showcased pearls, pink, and sheer blouses, connecting with the feminine.

Sources

T1
Gender-bending is now part of menswear. Paris runways show how mainstream it has becomeAP News

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